gears-keep-turning:

explodinghye:

choclety milk shakes likes his baths

I’m on very little sleep and this just made me laugh for a solid 5 or 6 minutes

pandandelion:

scalestails:

ohailsbetta:

scalestails:

HOLY FUCKING SHIT YOU GUYS

The mice finally arrived… three boys. In that tiny cage. It smelled like shit and piss, has ONE WHEEL (which is caked in feces) and I am not kidding that is not their travel cage that is their actual fucking cage.

Apparently they fight over the wheel, but they got it to stop them from biting the bars of the cage.

All are young, two being less than a year and one being a bit older than that.  I won’t reveal anything about the person who dropped them off other than they genuinely thought this was fine. Absolutely fine.

I’ve heard some sneezing, 98% sure it’s because of the ammonia levels in the cage. It should clear up in a clean environment.

Since I am fresh out of spare tanks I’m picking up a 10 gallon tomorrow. Which I will have to clean every freaking day, just about. :I I mean with my ONE mouse in a 10gal I was cleaning it twice a week with his stinky pee. I can only imagine what having THREE BOYS in one will do.

Final cage will either be a bin cage or a 20 long, possibly larger if I can manage to fit one. I’d really like to adopt these three out though, as cute as they are.

But… I lead the person to believe that I was taking them for good. But the space these guys are taking up is the space I had set aside for one of my geckos when she comes out of the basement (and she’s only in a temporary 10gal… eventually she’ll need a 20Xhigh). So it’s a squeeze.

I can always technically fit a tank on the floor, but I’d reeeeally like to avoid that because when tanks/things become hard to access that’s when I know I have too many things.

I mean I know I’d never let their care suffer but it’s a slippery slope and I’d rather not make exceptions you know? *heavy sigh* So we’ll see. For now my priority is taking care of them and getting them into a bigger cage with furnishings. 

Personally would not suggest using a tank, mice need good ventilation. A cage with horizontal bars is much better

True! But pretty much the only cage in the US big enough is $122+ and can only be ordered online.

I mean Petco/Petsmart has some that are aaaaaaalmost big enough but they’re smaller than a 20long. I’m leaning toward a bin cage for the ventilation, considering there are so many mice. My lone male does well in his 20long but it’s just him making waste.

Man I want that stupid cage though. It’s cute.

Could you perhaps modify a bird cage? It might cost more money and a few more supplies but i did this for my Syrian hamster and the cage itself only cost $30 and some cardboard for the edges, which is roughly the same as a 20 long (at least at my local petshop) 

image

:O !!! That is really cool! How was it to clean?

I’m more than likely doing a bin cage, for the ease of cleaning/cheapness. But a 10gal will have to do temporarily. Anything that’s bigger than this and they can go in immediately. You know?

But I’d really like to know more about that bird cage! Was it escape proof? How did you modify it?

ohailsbetta:

scalestails:

HOLY FUCKING SHIT YOU GUYS

The mice finally arrived… three boys. In that tiny cage. It smelled like shit and piss, has ONE WHEEL (which is caked in feces) and I am not kidding that is not their travel cage that is their actual fucking cage.

Apparently they fight over the wheel, but they got it to stop them from biting the bars of the cage.

All are young, two being less than a year and one being a bit older than that.  I won’t reveal anything about the person who dropped them off other than they genuinely thought this was fine. Absolutely fine.

I’ve heard some sneezing, 98% sure it’s because of the ammonia levels in the cage. It should clear up in a clean environment.

Since I am fresh out of spare tanks I’m picking up a 10 gallon tomorrow. Which I will have to clean every freaking day, just about. :I I mean with my ONE mouse in a 10gal I was cleaning it twice a week with his stinky pee. I can only imagine what having THREE BOYS in one will do.

Final cage will either be a bin cage or a 20 long, possibly larger if I can manage to fit one. I’d really like to adopt these three out though, as cute as they are.

But… I lead the person to believe that I was taking them for good. But the space these guys are taking up is the space I had set aside for one of my geckos when she comes out of the basement (and she’s only in a temporary 10gal… eventually she’ll need a 20Xhigh). So it’s a squeeze.

I can always technically fit a tank on the floor, but I’d reeeeally like to avoid that because when tanks/things become hard to access that’s when I know I have too many things.

I mean I know I’d never let their care suffer but it’s a slippery slope and I’d rather not make exceptions you know? *heavy sigh* So we’ll see. For now my priority is taking care of them and getting them into a bigger cage with furnishings. 

Personally would not suggest using a tank, mice need good ventilation. A cage with horizontal bars is much better

True! But pretty much the only cage in the US big enough is $122+ and can only be ordered online.

I mean Petco/Petsmart has some that are aaaaaaalmost big enough but they’re smaller than a 20long. I’m leaning toward a bin cage for the ventilation, considering there are so many mice. My lone male does well in his 20long but it’s just him making waste.

Man I want that stupid cage though. It’s cute.

low-techtank:

kai-ni:

low-techtank:

As long as my parents are cool with it, crested gecko is a real possibility! (Not until I move my shrimp, so August/September is the earliest the buyer can house them!)

I’m liking the idea of this get up. Not sure if I want to buy the pieces separately though.

Dunno all that much about geckos but I did learn during corn snake research that the analog humidity gauges are crap - you want an electronic one :>

okay! That makes sense I feel like.

I was kinda leaning towards buying my own stuff, but I havent broken down the prices yet. Really that set up is just easy of purchase, and you get the option of a free gecko if you want.

I have a lot of time to work this out though!

At first it didn’t look worth it, but it comes with a magnetic food/water dish and that’s really cool. You’ll need more plants/decor but it’s not a bad start!

But like kai-ni said the thermo/hygrometer are junk. Don’t even bother using them and buy a digital version of both.

brown—hound replied to your post: HOLY FUCKING SHIT YOU GUYS The mice fi…

I was at a dollar general today and they had those nice big tubs for only $10! might want to look into one of those instead of a tiny 10gal

The only problem is I’d have to ventilate it, and that requires a shopping trip/time. My ride situation dictates that I probably can’t pick any stuff like that up by tomorrow. But I can just pop into work and buy a 10gal+lid real quick.

I need to get my license. :I Real bad. I’ll try though!

sengawolf:

scalestails:

This is the most pastel punk fish I’ve ever seen.

Is this how he was stored in the store, or is this his new home? If it’s the latter, he will need more space, and some places to hide. Maybe a warm filtered 5-gallon?

Good advice haha! He is at a pet store, my work, and the bowls are (usually) cleaned daily. c:

sengawolf:

scalestails:

This is the most pastel punk fish I’ve ever seen.

Is this how he was stored in the store, or is this his new home? If it’s the latter, he will need more space, and some places to hide. Maybe a warm filtered 5-gallon?

Good advice haha! He is at a pet store, my work, and the bowls are (usually) cleaned daily. c:

HOLY FUCKING SHIT YOU GUYS

The mice finally arrived… three boys. In that tiny cage. It smelled like shit and piss, has ONE WHEEL (which is caked in feces) and I am not kidding that is not their travel cage that is their actual fucking cage.

Apparently they fight over the wheel, but they got it to stop them from biting the bars of the cage.

All are young, two being less than a year and one being a bit older than that.  I won’t reveal anything about the person who dropped them off other than they genuinely thought this was fine. Absolutely fine.

I’ve heard some sneezing, 98% sure it’s because of the ammonia levels in the cage. It should clear up in a clean environment.

Since I am fresh out of spare tanks I’m picking up a 10 gallon tomorrow. Which I will have to clean every freaking day, just about. :I I mean with my ONE mouse in a 10gal I was cleaning it twice a week with his stinky pee. I can only imagine what having THREE BOYS in one will do.

Final cage will either be a bin cage or a 20 long, possibly larger if I can manage to fit one. I’d really like to adopt these three out though, as cute as they are.

But… I lead the person to believe that I was taking them for good. But the space these guys are taking up is the space I had set aside for one of my geckos when she comes out of the basement (and she’s only in a temporary 10gal… eventually she’ll need a 20Xhigh). So it’s a squeeze.

I can always technically fit a tank on the floor, but I’d reeeeally like to avoid that because when tanks/things become hard to access that’s when I know I have too many things.

I mean I know I’d never let their care suffer but it’s a slippery slope and I’d rather not make exceptions you know? *heavy sigh* So we’ll see. For now my priority is taking care of them and getting them into a bigger cage with furnishings. 

fartgallery:

His name is Sam

Hey! You’re one of my favorite blogs so I figure if give you a heads up. Sand is dangerous to almost all reptiles, including bearded dragons! Even if the bag says it’s safe, or made specifically for reptiles (this also includes calci-sand and crushed walnut) it’s not! Bearded dragons ingest it while eating or simply licking it. Especially when you’re not looking, bearded dragons spontaneously lick things. This sand MIGHT be passed through their gut undigested but there is a good chance of it staying there and blocking their intestines. This has been observed time and time again. Many bearded dragon owners have lost their lizards to this totally preventable death! Eventually it forms such a block that food cannot pass. The bearded dragon then suffers and dies. So please, for his safety, take that sand out as soon as possible! (If he is on sand, that is!)Safe substrates include paper towels, newspaper, butcher paper, commercial reptile “carpet” (only to be used with beardies who have their nails trimmed, otherwise their nails might catch), “excavator clay”, and the biggest preference goes to normal tile! It can be purchased at most hardware stores and also cut to size there. Also make sure he’s getting enough UVB light (this is a separate light from your heat lamp)! It is extremely important for his health.

fartgallery:

His name is Sam

Hey! You’re one of my favorite blogs so I figure if give you a heads up. Sand is dangerous to almost all reptiles, including bearded dragons!

Even if the bag says it’s safe, or made specifically for reptiles (this also includes calci-sand and crushed walnut) it’s not!

Bearded dragons ingest it while eating or simply licking it. Especially when you’re not looking, bearded dragons spontaneously lick things. This sand MIGHT be passed through their gut undigested but there is a good chance of it staying there and blocking their intestines.

This has been observed time and time again. Many bearded dragon owners have lost their lizards to this totally preventable death! Eventually it forms such a block that food cannot pass. The bearded dragon then suffers and dies.

So please, for his safety, take that sand out as soon as possible! (If he is on sand, that is!)

Safe substrates include paper towels, newspaper, butcher paper, commercial reptile “carpet” (only to be used with beardies who have their nails trimmed, otherwise their nails might catch), “excavator clay”, and the biggest preference goes to normal tile! It can be purchased at most hardware stores and also cut to size there.

Also make sure he’s getting enough UVB light (this is a separate light from your heat lamp)! It is extremely important for his health.

I found the biggest pond snail I’ve ever seen today.

I found the biggest pond snail I’ve ever seen today.

Mice are coming today!

I have no idea how many or what they’re in. I’m nervous! I expect there will only be two. But they used to plural “mice” so you never know for sure!

Wish list (I tag the whole community to make one too)

housebatbetta:

smaugthebetta:

theblondeaquarist:

yanishy:

toomanyfishblogs:

dmitrithegoldfish:

fishysarefriendsnotfoods:

kai-ni:

low-techtank:

1. Crested Gecko
2. Goldfish
3. More axolotls
4. Gold Barbs

  1. cron snak

1.) Moar bettas
2.) A big tank with fancy goldfish
3.) A pond for some koi
4.) A puffer.

1. Betta!

2. More plants for my 50 gallon

3. Big pond for Dmitri 

4. Shrimp for my ten gallon

1. Goldfish!
2. Plants to plant my tank
3. Axotol (sp?)
4. A snake :)

1. black moor
2. black moor
3. black moor
4. black moor

1. axolotl

2. african lung fish

3. 200 gallon riparium w/ discus

4. koi pond

1. Crested Gecko

2. Ball Python

3. More bettas

4. Axolotl

1 dunno fish 

  1. 15-20 Ember tetras for the 20 gallon.
  2. A pair of B. macrostomas and a 20 long biotope.
  3. A 100 gallon rescue fancy goldfish tank.
  4. A 75 gallon North American biotope tank. (With various shiners, sunfish, snails, shrimp, and maybe some livebearers.)
  5. A 40 gallon reef tank. (must have a flame angel!)
  6. A rescue goldfish/koi pond (1500 gallons? Maybe more)

And that’s just fish stuff! Other stuff would be…

  1. Jungle carpet python
  2. A million mice
  3. C. cyaneopubescens (green bottle blue tarantula)

Probably a million more things I can’t think of right now.

reptiglo:

Girls who set tortoise on fire have been arrested-

Two girls seen on a Facebook video torturing and killing a gopher tortoise on July 16 in front of an Orange Park home were arrested Friday by investigators from the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission and Clay County Sheriff’s Office.

Jennifer Emoke Greene, 18, and a 15-year-old juvenile were both charged with felony cruelty to animals and a misdemeanor charge of taking, harassing, harming or killing a gopher tortoise, according to commission spokeswoman Karen Parker. Greene is in the Clay County jail on $55,000 bail.

The gopher tortoise has been listed as a threatened species in Florida since 2007, an upgrade from its previous “species of special concern” designation. “We are pleased the authorities acted so quickly and we hope this sets a precedent that animal cruelty should not be tolerated,” Welzant said. “Our Facebook and our email was getting a lot of feedback and a lot of outpouring from the community regarding this case and how upset they were.”

The graphic videos shows two Orange Park girls burning a small gopher tortoise, then laughing and cursing as they throw it down the street. The tortoise is doused with alcohol and lit as it crawls in circles through the flames. The tortoise tries to flee after it is doused again.

“Burn baby, burn baby,” one girl says as they light the tortoise on fire. “Now you are scared of us, huh?”

The second video is more graphic as one girl stomps on the tortoise until it is dead, with its organs squishing out. The girls scream in laughter. “His heart came out with a bunch of grass,” the girl with the camera says as she laughs, then kicks the corpse. “He’s dead. That’s funny.”

If convicted, Greene faces up to five years in prison on the felony animal-cruelty charge, while the misdemeanor charge carries up to 60 days in jail and/or a $500 fine, according to commission officials. The 15-year-old’s case would be handled in juvenile court.

Thank fucking god these two were caught.

Feeding Your Rabbit

theexoticvet:

In the wild rabbits consume large amounts of nutritionally poor grasses, shoots, and ground covers. They have numerous adaptations that allow them to thrive eating foods that other herbivores cannot. One of these are open rooted teeth that grow for their entire lives. These teeth grow continually to ensure that they are not worn down to an unusable size from eating tough grasses. The digestive system of rabbits has also adapted to the fibrous foods and peristaltic action (movement of the intestines that pushes food through) only works properly if the intestines are stimulated by fiber found in nutrient poor foods.

Hay
The most important part of a rabbit diet is hay and they should ALWAYS have a fresh supply. You cannot overfeed your rabbit on hay so never let it run out. There are many types that you can offer but Timothy hay is the most common. Some other good selections are: orchard grass hay, prairie hay, oat hay.
Stay away from alfalfa hay as it is too high in calcium and calories and can cause bladder stones and other health issues in adult rabbits. Giving your rabbit a variety of hays is good for them. The fiber found in them helps wear down their teeth which prevents dental disease and also keeps the G.I tract functioning properly.

Vegetables & Greens
These make up the second most important part of a healthy rabbit diet.  A good rule of thumb is to offer about 2 cups of vegetables daily for every 5 pounds (2.2 kg) your rabbit weighs. Again, variety is key so don’t offer the same greens all the time. Rotate them out and mix them up. Good ones to choose from are: endive, parsley, carrot tops, romaine lettuce, radicchio, basil, dandelion, squash, baby greens, mustard greens.


   Fruit
Very small amounts of fruit can be given as treats but in general they are too high in sugar and can cause diarrhea so they should be avoided. They love the green tops of strawberries though and these make a great treat.

Pellets
Pelleted diets were invented to quickly grow and fatten up rabbits kept for their meat. Pet rabbits do not need them at all and will live long healthy lives on nothing but hay and greens. If you still want to feed a pelleted ration get one that is made of Timothy hay and does not have corn, seeds, or other grains mixed in.  Provide a maximum of ¼ C of pellets per 5 pounds (2.2 kg) of body weight per day.

Foods to Avoid

Avoid anything with dairy (yogurt drops, milk, ice cream, cheese, etc.) Breads, pastas, grains, should all be avoided. Also do not give sugary treats.


Water
Rabbits drink much more water for their size than dogs or cats and should always have access to fresh water. Change out their bottle every single day and wash it not only to cut down on bacteria that grow in the bottle but also to make sure that the sipper is still functioning and doesn’t have a clog.  Some rabbits prefer drinking out of a bowl and studies have shown they actually drink more if provided one instead of a sipper bottle.

Chewing
In addition to food items rabbits should have access to things they can chew to help keep their teeth worn down and provide them with something to keep them occupied.  You can purchase wooden rabbit-safe toys or make your own for free. You can give them toilet paper tubes filled with hay, empty cereal boxes, paper towel tubes, etc.

My Rabbit Won’t Eat!

Rabbits are always hungry and if you notice yours isn’t eating as much or at all this is very serious. Bring your rabbit to the vet ASAP if it has a decreased appetite.

killerclarebear:

scalestails kai-ni
You two are the perfect blog buddies

When will I find my blog-friend sensei

c: Kai is indeed the bees knees.

Neat red scooter blenny in the reef tank at work.

Neat red scooter blenny in the reef tank at work.